UPDATED: 5 days in the WB
Salfit, 20th September 2006
The big day arrived. As usual, got out of bed, had a shower and had my breakfast. Had to meet Iyad at 07:50 in the meeting point and I arrived shortly before he did. Jumped into the car and we started our journey. The traffic in Nazareth was total chaos and it took us a long time just to get out of the city. Then we drove until Haifa, place where I was meeting the driver that was taking both me and the food to distribute in Salfit area. Changed from Iyad's car to the big truck full with the food packages and listened carefully to Iyad's tips and advices. Got a bit scared by this time… but anyway I had to go. Had to do it!
The plan was the following: go to Salfit area, unload the food packages, distribute them throughout the villages' distribution centers and take photos and videos of the food distribution and people's living conditions over there. Then I should go to Nablus on the 23rd and do the same thing there for two days and on the 25th go to Jerusalem, get a bus to Haifa where Iyad would be waiting for me.
By this time I didn’t know where I was going to stay, with whom or in which conditions. Didn’t know what to expect, but I really didn’t care about it. The trick is to expect the worst case scenario, so that you never get disappointed or worried with what you get. The most important thing is to keep calm all the time.
Anyway, my trip started and we were in the highway Ytzhac Rabin in direction to Telaviv. Salfit is no more than 40 Km from the capital city. When we entered the WB – which was signalized by 2 cement blocks on each side of the road with a fluorescent X painted on them – the landscape just changed! Most of the houses seem abandoned, the roads are filled with holes, the cars seem directly out of the junkyard (it is still a miracle to me how they could be driven) and the people… well the people are just people, like anyone of us, but without fancy clothes, deodorant, accessoires and perfume.
My first impression gave me the idea that everything is covered by a dust layer: the "houses", the "cars" and the people... the people's mind. All this made me feel sadness, disappointment caused by a great injustice… "Why?" – is the only thing that comes to my mind. I didn’t think too much about it at the time, I didn’t want to! It was easier for me not to think about it… and I had to stay calm and not let be overruled by my emotions! After all I had work to do.
As we were driving to our destination I looked closer, to the houses, to the cars, to the people… and although the scenery would be the perfect for an abandoned city horror movie, I realized that there were people everywhere! And they were looking at me… and the children smiling. I guess I was a little ray of hope in their life… I had the feeling that I could help to clean some dust from their minds!
After dozens of holes in the road and hundreds of lightning speed thoughts, we arrived to the distribution center: our destination. Local people looked at me as if I was an ET… which I was and felt like in this land. In their faces I could read the question they were making to themselves: "Who in hell is this guy and WHY and what is he doing here?". I admit that their looks made me think a lot and I had second thoughts about all this…
The local committee gave me a very warm welcoming and they served me some Arabic coffee on the spot and we started unloading the food packages. Happenings were succeeding so fast that I had no time for anything. Had to take pictures, listen to the people and help unloading the food. Spent that morning taking pictures and carrying boxes and bags; first from the truck to the storage and later from the storage to cars. Between lots of coffee and tea I sweated a lot… it is hard to work under such a hot sun!
By now, like all of them, I was covered with a dust layer… and I was starting to understand a new reality: their reality. The Palestinian people reality! And besides all the problems they face, besides all the stress and tension, people here are friendly, warm and smiling. They keep on living! I can feel an enormous strength and will of living; on going forward… quitting is not an option for them! And it was not for me either! They transmitted me a lot of strength and courage... they made me feel at home. They always offered me the best they had… and what surprised me, without expecting or wanting anything in return!
Around 14 o'clock they took me to see and photograph the apartheid wall and visit a family that lived nearby. I went with Saher (the man with whom I would be staying with and my guide in Salfit) and the man that was living there. We made a short car trip and parked near the wall. There is a concrete part and the rest is kind of a fence that at night dusk is electric! We went through a locked gate in the fence (which the man had the key for) and we crossed. I felt like trespassing by now… couldn’t see any soldier but I felt like at gunpoint all the time. This was all new to me and I was still a bit afraid. But I crossed the gate, which this man closed right after and I found myself in a place that was neither Palestine neither Israel. It was like nobody's land. It was a buffer zone. At night the soldiers patrol that area and shot at any movement they see, this man told me. His house was in this buffer zone and it was limited by a cube: concrete wall in front, electric fence on the back, right and left, the soil and the sky on the bottom and up. From dusk until dawn this man and his family (3 children and his wife) had to live inside their house risking their life if they just dare to come and look out of the window… he talked on how the wall and destruction of the greenhouse he was working in lead him and his family to misery… even though he offered us coffee and juice!
Went back to the distribution center and had lunch (that seemed like a feast to me) at a collaborator's house. He could speak a little Portuguese because he made some holidays in Brazil… pretty amazing! After this the first distribution session started. It took place in the yard in front of the collaborating organization. Fifty packages were distributed that afternoon. It felt really good to see materialized my will to help this people. It was good to see how people's faces were changing when they were coming to get the food packages. A lot of the food packages were carried either by the LIFE collaborators and their relatives directly to people houses or cars.
There was a few that were arriving dragging themselves, looking down to the ground and picking the food packages personally. It was really nice to notice that when the food was given to them, a smile would appear and energy would burst out of their bodies. They could feel a bit more relieved now that they could feed their families!
After this we headed to Sarta, a village nearby, where Saher was living. It’s a 900 year old historical village and they made a small "touristic" tour with me across it. He showed me his place, where I met his family and spent the next a couple of hours. Did Capoeira, had a shower, ate some fruit and drank some more tea.
After this we went out again and he showed me the place where he and his friends gather, an old room in an old building in the center of the village. There I drank more tea and Shaer and two of his friends decided to show me the night view from the top of the village's hill. We took 30 minutes to get to the top and we sat in the rocks, admired the view and talked a lot. From there we could see Netanyia and Telaviv not very far away. This made me think of the lifestyle difference. It was a paradise compared to the life people have here in the WB. So near and so far… that’s the "miracle" of the wall and the apartheid! I can go freely to both places: in and out as I want. But not these people… not these poor people!
One hour later we went back to the village. They were telling me about the 3rd Mosque of the village, that in their opinion was not needed at all and that they should spend the limited money in doing other things. After all, the village has only 3000 inhabitants.
Once at Saher's place we ate a lot: Salad, Humus (delicious!), pickles, bread and cheese. The food there is great! We then talked about some cultural differences between Europe and Palestine and about the problems they face. Stayed up until 1 am… it was a very long day for me… a lot of stuff, a lot of feelings…
Salfit, 21st September 2006
Woke up at 8:00 without having enough sleep because of the heat, the mosquitoes and the call to go to mosque. Got around 12 mosquito bites that night. That would be my second day in the WB and I was happy that the night was over. Washed my face, scratched the mosquito bites and went away. Didn’t have breakfast, just a coffee. We headed towards the next distribution point in a car that I would never think it could de driven.
We arrived at the first distribution point of the day, in Deir Ballut. The distribution was made in kind a yard/terrace of somebody's house. I got surprised to see that, compared to the day before, persons were queuing for the food packages… impatient to get them home and nervous that they will finish before their turn comes. So, when it all started, chaos ruled and some people were coming back, after they had their food package safe at home, and asking for more… saying that it is not enough… that they need more…Took a lot of photos that morning, although people do not collaborate much! It is a bit frustrating, but maybe because I am a foreigner they become suspicious about the aim of my pictures. Language is a barrier and it's hard to stop people and take photos of them with the food, either because they just run away or because somebody takes the food to them. Before the distribution event was over I was called to accompany Saher and a man to a piece of land he owns. Israel is building another wall near and if they decide to build it across this man's land it means he will loose it automatically… he was complaining also about the fact that he couldn’t actually use his land now, because the IOF would shoot a him or whoever is on the land after dusk. It's sad, but it’s the reality here in the WB! We visited a family where the father is blind, the mother died and the two sons are diabetic… They barely have money to eat because all of it has to go either to the medicine or to the visits to the doctor.
We went then to the second distribution point, in Rafat, and divided the food in 50 family packages. I had my first meal by this time. It was already 16:00. After having lunch, the distribution started. A few cars, a donkey and a few cartwheels were coming, loading the food packages and leaving. The people who actually carry the food to the cars, donkey, and cartwheels and sometimes to houses are the LIFE collaborators and their relatives. Not many different faces are actually coming to get the food packages… I guess that just the ones more in need, the critical cases come personally and because they have no transportation method they pick it personally from the distribution center. Here we visited a family of 13 people (father, mother plus 11 sons) living in very bad conditions. The father was telling me that after he lost his job in Israel, to earn money to support 9 of the 11 child he had (2 were in Ramallah living with some relatives) was almost impossible and that the help from LIFE was very important. The children were always around me smiling and asking me to take photos of them and their house. I had a tour through their house, which is unfinished and too small for such a numerous family. When I left, all the kids were coming to me and shouting "Thank you, thank you!" and shaking my hand. One of them marked me especially because he took my right hand, said "Thank you!" looking me in the eyes, then holding it, took it to his heart, forehead and gave a kiss on the back of it. I got goose bumps for the next five minutes… nothing similar had ever happened to me before…
After this we followed to the third and last distribution point of the day in az Zawiya. It was improvised in a really small room/storage filled with the food packages among other old electric junk. It was very dark there and the family packages were not prepared. All the separate components were pilled across the room. We had to prepare the packages as people were
coming and the distribution strategy repeated itself… not many different people were coming and to take pictures in this place was even harder. The distribution strategy, the lack of space, light and will from the people made it very hard to document the distribution event. It was getting late afternoon, I was exhausted and by 19.30 we left with 14 packages still to distribute.
We went home and I had to write about these two last days. I got to know that I have to rush to Nablus in the next morning, one day earlier than the predicted. Didn’t do much more that night besides writing more and more and pack my stuff to leave the next morning until the moment when the Saher's brother dragged me to the mount again and meet Saher and his friends. That night I went to bed at 01:00 o'clock in the morning again.
Salfit & Nablus, 22nd September 2006
The day started and I scratch around 10 new mosquito bites. Didn’t sleep neither much neither well, so I woke up quite tired. Saher suggested that I interview his family before I head to Nablus, ando so I did. After that Saher's brother took me to the taxi, which charged me 50 shekels just to go to Nablus. I asked him (Saher's brother) if that was a normal price and he told me yes. I paid the 50 shekels having the feeling that I was being ripped off… got into the taxi and we headed to Nablus. This taxi driver picked 6 more passengers on the way that paid much less than I did and we passed the Passport Control point. The soldier wrote down my passport number and that means, that probably I will have the double of the questions when I leave Israel. Soon after I had to get out of the taxi and walk through the other side of the Checkpoint where another taxi would be waiting for me with the local collaborators. I passed through the checkpoint with no trouble compared to the people who were trying to get out of Nablus. I felt like being on gunpoint all the time. Control towers with snipers all over…and that made me nervous. But there I was, all alone going to Nablus.
Once in the other side I was bombarded by taxi drivers' offers, which I refused and waited for my taxi. It took around 5 minutes to arrive… they horned and I got into the taxi with all my stuff plus the LIFE placards and t-shirts. Nobody spoke to me, just the typical "Marhabar!". Once in Nablus I called Iyad saying that I arrived. It was a relief for both that all went with no problems. It was also good to be in a city, in a metropolis. There we headed to the PARC/PCHR office in the center of the city. There were a lot of women waiting inside, I didn’t know why and when I tried to interview them (suggested by the local collaborators) they all actively refused. Some even left the room!
Half an hour later all this women headed to another room, along with some other people that arrive din the meantime. They were registering in order to get the food packages. The rule was: one food package per family, and the choosing criteria was: families with more than 5 children or who have lost people during the occupation. Again chaos installed, and outside the office, banging in the metal door all the time and shouting there were a huge crowd slashing themselves against the walls of the stairway trying to get in and register for the packages. This made me realize that the situation here is much worse than in Salfit, and it made me see the problems that the siege caused to these people. In the old part if the town, the unemployment rate reaches the 60-70% almost and it is here where most of the critical cases live.
We headed towards the distribution point that wasn’t far from there and we had a hard time opening our way through the people in the stairway! This distribution point was a dark room with a small door very similar to the one described before, located in a street in the back of a building. The truck arrived at the same time we did. The t-shirts just flew around and it was time to unload the food and make some pictures. After the unloading there was one person left with the LIFE t-shirt, which was a teenager that was helping there. The taxis came in succession along with more cartwheels and again the distribution process was the same as in all the other places. LIFE collaborators were taking the food packages into the taxis and the cartwheels. This together with people coming and going, taxi drivers horning to the people on the streets and no LIFE logos around (except my t-shirt, the teenager one and the placards placed on the wall) to take pictures was a mission. People here seemed less "scared" of me, although they still looked at me with suspicious eyes and some of the staff ask me what am I doing there (I guess they were not aware of my arrival). A lot of people were asked to share their stories with me while waiting for their turn in the queue. Rafat was the person to whom I was "assigned" to and the one who translates things to me. The amount of people in need here is visibly more, fact that could be seen by the increased number of angry protests against the "small" amount of food that was given to them. It was hard to deal with that… the one that marked me the most was an old woman passing the pointing finger across Rafat's throat while protesting.
Heard some life stories from some of the people in need; among them a blind man, a man that had his arm burned due to Israeli bombing and a lot of people without work. Some of the people didn’t accept even to take photos.
We went then to have lunch at Rafat's uncle house which told me about him and his family and how the situation got worse in Nablus in the last six years. He told me that before he had money in the bank and that now he barely has money to live and that he lost his business a few years ago, along with 30000 US dolares. He lives now with 2000 shekels per month, from which 1000 are used to pay the house and fixed bills. He has 3 children, 2 of which are girls and have thalassemia. For this reason they have to do blood transfusions twice a month at least and to make a medulla transplant is way too expensive.
After this we left again to the distribution point and again the same stories as in the morning. The situation here is really worst than in Salfit area. There, because it’s a rural area, people seem to help each other more, but here, and like any other big city is more impersonal and people care less about their neighbors. One can feel the stress and tension of the people in the air. They are more impatient, more nervous, less caring and less warm.
And although the situation here is bad, the city itself is wonderful… And despite the aggressive posters and the constant appeal to revolution in the air, I like it very much!
It is a city full of life, full of people and pretty clean for what I have seen until now in the WB.
Rounds of shooting can be heard all across the city, but I guess it's because Ramadan starts tomorrow. In the city center a Christian tower can be seen side by side with a Mosque, and in
the top of the hill a Israeli control tower can be seen (they shoot to city sometimes from there).
The night was falling and I went to Rafat's appartment. A nice apartment in the 4th floor of a new building in the top of one of the hills of Nablus and the view over the city is just fantastic. Had a nice meal together with some more tea and Arabic coffee. Then the rest of the evening I spent writing my daily report and playing with his son, Nouni: a very smart 2.5 year old kid. When I finished my writing and was finally preparing to go to bed, action started!
Some shooting blasted very near my house, one street under the street of my building. I could see from the window armed man running around a catholic church and shooting at some other people. I got to know later that night that it was some people that tried to burn the church due to the recent Pope comments… the shooting was between these men and the Palestinian police. It was my first live shooting and both me and Rafat got scared when a lost bullet could be seen coming more or less in our direction (it is like a shooting star, orange in color, and coming from down towards up)… I went to bed shortly after… what a day and what a night!
Nablus, 23rd September 2006
One more day in Nablus and as I mencioned before, despite all its problems, it is a fantastic city. It has all it needs to prosper, if it wasn’t for the siege…
Tonight I slept really well! Maybe my best night sleep since I arrived in Israel/Palestine. My hosts are great! Once again I was lucky!
Today is the first day of Ramadan, so I will try to keep up to the rule: don’t eat or drink or smoke until the sunset. Since I do not smoke I would "just" have to cope with the fasting.
I and Rafat left the apartment and went to the Workers Union. There was no distribution today and so I spent the next 1 hour waiting for Rafat to solve some problems there. I was getting bored in Nablus… but I barely knew what was expecting me that day! In the meantime, when Rafat was done in the workers Union we headed to the PARC office where for the next couple of hours I waited sitting for a meeting to finish. I have to admit that I cheated Ramadan and I ate and drunk by lunch time…I couldn’t stand it… and if I didn’t eat I couldn’t concentrate on my work later on that day.
In the meantime, people that got some food packages the day before were coming back to complain again that the food wasn’t enough and they were trying to "fool the system" by coming several members of the same family asking for food packages. Unfortunately for them the technique didn’t work, so they were going away pretty upset and some of them really angry.
A bit later we went to another building where Rafat was supposed to meet with somebody else. By this time I felt pretty useless and I was getting bored and bored. I then asked for the plan of the day and he told me that we would go to visit the old center of Nablus and try to talk to some families living there. The objective was to record some testimonials about the apartheid and the Israeli army frequent incursions and bombing to that area of the town.
At 14:00 I had to talk with Abujamil, the guy who was coordinating the distribution (I think) and he asked me about my impressions of Nablus. He wanted some feedback.
I told him about my point of view of the situation as an outsider: the situation here is much worse than the situation people live in the rural areas of Salfit. One could see clearly that the amount of people asking for more food is more compared to Salfit, the stress and tension people have can be felt in the air and also because in cities people care much less about each other, the situation becomes even worse. In rural areas the motto is more like "one for all and all for one", while in Nablus is "I'm for me and you are for you". Moreover, the huge unemployment rate (reaching 60-70% in the old center) together with the economic sanctions and the siege make it very hard to the people living here. People seem to respect less the person next to them and personal interests come always first. Fact that is completely understandable because one can't worry about the wellbeing of others if his own situation is not stable.
Abujamil agreed with me and he called a man and asked him to guide me through the old city center. He told me that we should leave right away because after 17:30 they could not protect me against some possible local militia threat. This made me feel my stomach again… but I had to do it. Was a unique opportunity and I had to grab it.
When the tour started, they showed me a house in ruins and told me that it was a bomb that the Israeli army putted there killing 6 people inside. A few meters ahead the same situation, where 4 more people died… the old center is beautiful, the streets are narrow full of passages under the houses that resemble a big old maze… I admire all that and think on how lucky I am to have the chance to see that still intact piece of history and think about the people who would pay a lot just to see what I was seeing… pieces of intact history are priceless and all this was threatened… We continued, and the number of bombed houses succeeded, along with the number of killed people on them… in the main plaza of the center there was a "shrine" to 9 victims of one of the bombed houses there… a hole family was killed! In this place there were a group of people looking at me and my guide advised me to keep the camera down and not to take more pictures for now… I followed his advice! I have noticed before that some people were making some comments to me and some were not very happy with the fact that I was taking pictures and getting my video camera out!
The tour continued, and the propaganda posters along with the killed people memorials and shrines increased. We got into a parking place where one could see that before there were houses… again he told me that 16 people were killed here in a bombing and that now it was converted in parking place for cars… we soon arrived at the old market where the people pushed against each other, some shopping, some running to the big Mosque in the center… it was vibrating with life, colors, shops, food, clothes, people…full of everything. It almost makes you forget about all the problems… And contrarily to what I experienced in the old town center, in the market people look at me, smile and say to each other: "Television, television!"
Because it was the first Ramadan day, people were extra busy at this time of the day and that was the reason why we didn’t visit any family as predicted before… What a pity! But anyway, it was good that I had the chance to go through this experience, which I think I would have never been able to do it by myself alone.
When the tour was over me and Rafat bought some food and headed home. There we had a full dinner with Schwarma included and I started packing my stuff to go to Haifa the next morning. My Nablus' time was getting to an end. I was missing it already…
After dinner we were having some Arabic coffee when Rafat received a sms and asked me if I wanted to go with him to the hospital to see some Israeli shooting victims. I went of course and when we arrived there we saw a man lying in bed with a big wound in his arm. The story was as following: he was in a taxi near the Nablus checkpoint when the car in front of them almost stopped. The taxi driver started overtaking this car and from one of the control towers a Israeli soldier shouted "Stop!" at the same time he started shooting at the car… 4 people were wounded. This man was the most critical case and he had 3 bullet fragment wounds in the back and one of the bullets entered near his wrist and got out near the elbow… It was very sad to hear the poor man story that had done nothing wrong. I didn’t know what to think with the hospital room smelling like blood and seeing the man lying in his bed in despair…
We went away and on our way home Rafat showed me one of the busiest streets at night of Nablus…had a coffee in a local café and headed home to sleep.
The next day would be a long day!
from Nablus to Nazareth 24th September 2006
That day started very early to me, earlier than what it should have! As it was supposed to leave Nablus at 8:00, I set up the alarm clock for 7:00. I realized one hour after that my clock was forward one hour… that’s why nobody was awake while I started to stress out with time.
Anyway, at real 7:00 Rafat woke up, we got ready and left to the center where I was supposed to meet Munjid at 8:00. he would take me to Ramallah and then somebody would accompany me until Jerusalem where I then would get a bus to Haifa, place where Iyad would be waiting for me.
Munjid was late 30 minutes and only at 9:00 we got out of Nablus. The taxi took us until the checkpoint. And now I had to do the reverse way I did 2 days ago. It was very easy to get in to Nablus, but it seemed impossible to get out! In our way to the checkpoint a crowd of people could be seen. I realized then that the checkpoints were closed and there was one soldier calling and checking person by person before being allowed to proceed further or be sent back. Between a fence on the left and concrete clocks on the right people were pushing each other forward while the soldiers were shouting to us to step back. For every step we were giving forward the soldiers would send us three steps back. We were at gunpoint all the time: from the soldiers in front of, from the left, from the right…never been like that before… never felt like that before! Felt so trapped, worst than being in a cage… its really hard to put it on words... couldn’t even think properly! And to get things worse, a family of 5 people just opened way throughout the crowd and the father faced the Israeli soldiers shouting something to them, they started shouting back at him and sending him to the queue. But he was not acceding to the soldier's orders, so they started pushing him with the riffles! Never experiences something similar and my heart started beating faster… I was just hoping that this wouldn’t start a random shooting, I was hoping that the man could just quit and go back to the line, which for the good of all he did soon after!
Squeezed against the people, under the sun, carrying all my stuff in my back, under gunpoint, tired and anxious I heard the soldiers shouting something loud! It was easy to understand by the people's reaction, the checkpoints were opening and all the people were running towards there. There the situation got slightly better, more organized and there was shadow! As soon as my turn was approaching I was feeling a mix of relief and anxiety. The only thing coming to my mind was the questionnaire in the airport, and that was making me nervous. And to be nervous in these situations doesn’t help, so I tried to be cool, remain calm! When my turn arrived, I thought on how I cope with my scientific presentations back in my work and I thought that I should do the same: look like a stone outside although inside all is trembling in the beginning. So there I was, walking like gentleman and trying to keep my pose. I told the soldiers that I speak English to what they smiled and shouted: "Good, finally!". I got quite surprised with the reaction; they caught me off guard… then they asked me where I come from and when I answered "Portugal" the conversation subject changed to football... Luis Figo this, Cristiano Ronaldo that… then I showed my bag and they got impressed with the LED flashlight I had. They offered me money for it, but I ended up giving it away to one of them (didn’t need it for me and don’t think I would use it anyway here)… they asked me what have I been doing in Nablus and they let me go after without even checking under my clothes, maybe it's one of the privileges of being a foreigner, or maybe with the conversation they just forgot! I was free to go and that was all that matters. It was a relief!!! So I waited for Munjid and we got in a new taxi and headed to Ramallah passing the same Passport control I passed when I came to Nablus. Until Ramallah there was no trouble and the city seems to be much calmer than Nablus and the situation is obviously better. We went directly to the bus station and Munjid told me to get a bus to Jerusalem and then from there to Telaviv and from there to Nazareth…well that was not the planned and I stressed out again… there was nobody waiting for me and now I had to go all the way to Nazareth with 2 stops and changing included. After 4 days in West Bank the thing that I wanted the least was to think and worry with these things, but life goes on and I should go on too. I said goodbye to Munjid got in the bus and we started the trip to Jerusalem. Soon after leavin Ramallah, we stopped at another checkpoint, had to get out of the bus, walked through the control corridor and catch the bus on the other side of the wall. This checkpoint was much more fortified and organizes than the one in Nablus, so everything went smoothly. I was starting to get used to the checkpoint stress, because by now I was not getting nervous at all. It was just one more routine task I had to do. That’s how they should be seen… a routine task to do, or else they get into your nerves and you go crazy!
After getting in the bus I went all the way to Jerusalem, the Holy City and there got a glance of the golden roof of the big Mosque in the center, but had no time to visit so got a cab service to Telaviv. There I got out, and went to the bus station where I had to be checked up again in order to be able to go in and realized that is was empty, dark and closed! Frustrated I went out and looked for a cab. Again a taxi driver tried to rip me and asked 350 shekels to go to Haifa. I made him a gesture as if he was crazy and left, so he shouted "300 shekels!", I didn’t even look back. Finally I got another service to Nazareth and I paid only 35 shekels!
One hour and something after I was safe in Nazareth, safe but not sound! This trip messed a lot with me… need time to settle now!
The big day arrived. As usual, got out of bed, had a shower and had my breakfast. Had to meet Iyad at 07:50 in the meeting point and I arrived shortly before he did. Jumped into the car and we started our journey. The traffic in Nazareth was total chaos and it took us a long time just to get out of the city. Then we drove until Haifa, place where I was meeting the driver that was taking both me and the food to distribute in Salfit area. Changed from Iyad's car to the big truck full with the food packages and listened carefully to Iyad's tips and advices. Got a bit scared by this time… but anyway I had to go. Had to do it!
The plan was the following: go to Salfit area, unload the food packages, distribute them throughout the villages' distribution centers and take photos and videos of the food distribution and people's living conditions over there. Then I should go to Nablus on the 23rd and do the same thing there for two days and on the 25th go to Jerusalem, get a bus to Haifa where Iyad would be waiting for me.
By this time I didn’t know where I was going to stay, with whom or in which conditions. Didn’t know what to expect, but I really didn’t care about it. The trick is to expect the worst case scenario, so that you never get disappointed or worried with what you get. The most important thing is to keep calm all the time.
Anyway, my trip started and we were in the highway Ytzhac Rabin in direction to Telaviv. Salfit is no more than 40 Km from the capital city. When we entered the WB – which was signalized by 2 cement blocks on each side of the road with a fluorescent X painted on them – the landscape just changed! Most of the houses seem abandoned, the roads are filled with holes, the cars seem directly out of the junkyard (it is still a miracle to me how they could be driven) and the people… well the people are just people, like anyone of us, but without fancy clothes, deodorant, accessoires and perfume.
My first impression gave me the idea that everything is covered by a dust layer: the "houses", the "cars" and the people... the people's mind. All this made me feel sadness, disappointment caused by a great injustice… "Why?" – is the only thing that comes to my mind. I didn’t think too much about it at the time, I didn’t want to! It was easier for me not to think about it… and I had to stay calm and not let be overruled by my emotions! After all I had work to do.
As we were driving to our destination I looked closer, to the houses, to the cars, to the people… and although the scenery would be the perfect for an abandoned city horror movie, I realized that there were people everywhere! And they were looking at me… and the children smiling. I guess I was a little ray of hope in their life… I had the feeling that I could help to clean some dust from their minds!
After dozens of holes in the road and hundreds of lightning speed thoughts, we arrived to the distribution center: our destination. Local people looked at me as if I was an ET… which I was and felt like in this land. In their faces I could read the question they were making to themselves: "Who in hell is this guy and WHY and what is he doing here?". I admit that their looks made me think a lot and I had second thoughts about all this…
The local committee gave me a very warm welcoming and they served me some Arabic coffee on the spot and we started unloading the food packages. Happenings were succeeding so fast that I had no time for anything. Had to take pictures, listen to the people and help unloading the food. Spent that morning taking pictures and carrying boxes and bags; first from the truck to the storage and later from the storage to cars. Between lots of coffee and tea I sweated a lot… it is hard to work under such a hot sun!
By now, like all of them, I was covered with a dust layer… and I was starting to understand a new reality: their reality. The Palestinian people reality! And besides all the problems they face, besides all the stress and tension, people here are friendly, warm and smiling. They keep on living! I can feel an enormous strength and will of living; on going forward… quitting is not an option for them! And it was not for me either! They transmitted me a lot of strength and courage... they made me feel at home. They always offered me the best they had… and what surprised me, without expecting or wanting anything in return!
Around 14 o'clock they took me to see and photograph the apartheid wall and visit a family that lived nearby. I went with Saher (the man with whom I would be staying with and my guide in Salfit) and the man that was living there. We made a short car trip and parked near the wall. There is a concrete part and the rest is kind of a fence that at night dusk is electric! We went through a locked gate in the fence (which the man had the key for) and we crossed. I felt like trespassing by now… couldn’t see any soldier but I felt like at gunpoint all the time. This was all new to me and I was still a bit afraid. But I crossed the gate, which this man closed right after and I found myself in a place that was neither Palestine neither Israel. It was like nobody's land. It was a buffer zone. At night the soldiers patrol that area and shot at any movement they see, this man told me. His house was in this buffer zone and it was limited by a cube: concrete wall in front, electric fence on the back, right and left, the soil and the sky on the bottom and up. From dusk until dawn this man and his family (3 children and his wife) had to live inside their house risking their life if they just dare to come and look out of the window… he talked on how the wall and destruction of the greenhouse he was working in lead him and his family to misery… even though he offered us coffee and juice!
Went back to the distribution center and had lunch (that seemed like a feast to me) at a collaborator's house. He could speak a little Portuguese because he made some holidays in Brazil… pretty amazing! After this the first distribution session started. It took place in the yard in front of the collaborating organization. Fifty packages were distributed that afternoon. It felt really good to see materialized my will to help this people. It was good to see how people's faces were changing when they were coming to get the food packages. A lot of the food packages were carried either by the LIFE collaborators and their relatives directly to people houses or cars.
There was a few that were arriving dragging themselves, looking down to the ground and picking the food packages personally. It was really nice to notice that when the food was given to them, a smile would appear and energy would burst out of their bodies. They could feel a bit more relieved now that they could feed their families!
After this we headed to Sarta, a village nearby, where Saher was living. It’s a 900 year old historical village and they made a small "touristic" tour with me across it. He showed me his place, where I met his family and spent the next a couple of hours. Did Capoeira, had a shower, ate some fruit and drank some more tea.
After this we went out again and he showed me the place where he and his friends gather, an old room in an old building in the center of the village. There I drank more tea and Shaer and two of his friends decided to show me the night view from the top of the village's hill. We took 30 minutes to get to the top and we sat in the rocks, admired the view and talked a lot. From there we could see Netanyia and Telaviv not very far away. This made me think of the lifestyle difference. It was a paradise compared to the life people have here in the WB. So near and so far… that’s the "miracle" of the wall and the apartheid! I can go freely to both places: in and out as I want. But not these people… not these poor people!
One hour later we went back to the village. They were telling me about the 3rd Mosque of the village, that in their opinion was not needed at all and that they should spend the limited money in doing other things. After all, the village has only 3000 inhabitants.
Once at Saher's place we ate a lot: Salad, Humus (delicious!), pickles, bread and cheese. The food there is great! We then talked about some cultural differences between Europe and Palestine and about the problems they face. Stayed up until 1 am… it was a very long day for me… a lot of stuff, a lot of feelings…
Salfit, 21st September 2006
Woke up at 8:00 without having enough sleep because of the heat, the mosquitoes and the call to go to mosque. Got around 12 mosquito bites that night. That would be my second day in the WB and I was happy that the night was over. Washed my face, scratched the mosquito bites and went away. Didn’t have breakfast, just a coffee. We headed towards the next distribution point in a car that I would never think it could de driven.
We arrived at the first distribution point of the day, in Deir Ballut. The distribution was made in kind a yard/terrace of somebody's house. I got surprised to see that, compared to the day before, persons were queuing for the food packages… impatient to get them home and nervous that they will finish before their turn comes. So, when it all started, chaos ruled and some people were coming back, after they had their food package safe at home, and asking for more… saying that it is not enough… that they need more…Took a lot of photos that morning, although people do not collaborate much! It is a bit frustrating, but maybe because I am a foreigner they become suspicious about the aim of my pictures. Language is a barrier and it's hard to stop people and take photos of them with the food, either because they just run away or because somebody takes the food to them. Before the distribution event was over I was called to accompany Saher and a man to a piece of land he owns. Israel is building another wall near and if they decide to build it across this man's land it means he will loose it automatically… he was complaining also about the fact that he couldn’t actually use his land now, because the IOF would shoot a him or whoever is on the land after dusk. It's sad, but it’s the reality here in the WB! We visited a family where the father is blind, the mother died and the two sons are diabetic… They barely have money to eat because all of it has to go either to the medicine or to the visits to the doctor.
We went then to the second distribution point, in Rafat, and divided the food in 50 family packages. I had my first meal by this time. It was already 16:00. After having lunch, the distribution started. A few cars, a donkey and a few cartwheels were coming, loading the food packages and leaving. The people who actually carry the food to the cars, donkey, and cartwheels and sometimes to houses are the LIFE collaborators and their relatives. Not many different faces are actually coming to get the food packages… I guess that just the ones more in need, the critical cases come personally and because they have no transportation method they pick it personally from the distribution center. Here we visited a family of 13 people (father, mother plus 11 sons) living in very bad conditions. The father was telling me that after he lost his job in Israel, to earn money to support 9 of the 11 child he had (2 were in Ramallah living with some relatives) was almost impossible and that the help from LIFE was very important. The children were always around me smiling and asking me to take photos of them and their house. I had a tour through their house, which is unfinished and too small for such a numerous family. When I left, all the kids were coming to me and shouting "Thank you, thank you!" and shaking my hand. One of them marked me especially because he took my right hand, said "Thank you!" looking me in the eyes, then holding it, took it to his heart, forehead and gave a kiss on the back of it. I got goose bumps for the next five minutes… nothing similar had ever happened to me before…
After this we followed to the third and last distribution point of the day in az Zawiya. It was improvised in a really small room/storage filled with the food packages among other old electric junk. It was very dark there and the family packages were not prepared. All the separate components were pilled across the room. We had to prepare the packages as people were
coming and the distribution strategy repeated itself… not many different people were coming and to take pictures in this place was even harder. The distribution strategy, the lack of space, light and will from the people made it very hard to document the distribution event. It was getting late afternoon, I was exhausted and by 19.30 we left with 14 packages still to distribute.We went home and I had to write about these two last days. I got to know that I have to rush to Nablus in the next morning, one day earlier than the predicted. Didn’t do much more that night besides writing more and more and pack my stuff to leave the next morning until the moment when the Saher's brother dragged me to the mount again and meet Saher and his friends. That night I went to bed at 01:00 o'clock in the morning again.
Salfit & Nablus, 22nd September 2006
The day started and I scratch around 10 new mosquito bites. Didn’t sleep neither much neither well, so I woke up quite tired. Saher suggested that I interview his family before I head to Nablus, ando so I did. After that Saher's brother took me to the taxi, which charged me 50 shekels just to go to Nablus. I asked him (Saher's brother) if that was a normal price and he told me yes. I paid the 50 shekels having the feeling that I was being ripped off… got into the taxi and we headed to Nablus. This taxi driver picked 6 more passengers on the way that paid much less than I did and we passed the Passport Control point. The soldier wrote down my passport number and that means, that probably I will have the double of the questions when I leave Israel. Soon after I had to get out of the taxi and walk through the other side of the Checkpoint where another taxi would be waiting for me with the local collaborators. I passed through the checkpoint with no trouble compared to the people who were trying to get out of Nablus. I felt like being on gunpoint all the time. Control towers with snipers all over…and that made me nervous. But there I was, all alone going to Nablus.
Once in the other side I was bombarded by taxi drivers' offers, which I refused and waited for my taxi. It took around 5 minutes to arrive… they horned and I got into the taxi with all my stuff plus the LIFE placards and t-shirts. Nobody spoke to me, just the typical "Marhabar!". Once in Nablus I called Iyad saying that I arrived. It was a relief for both that all went with no problems. It was also good to be in a city, in a metropolis. There we headed to the PARC/PCHR office in the center of the city. There were a lot of women waiting inside, I didn’t know why and when I tried to interview them (suggested by the local collaborators) they all actively refused. Some even left the room!
Half an hour later all this women headed to another room, along with some other people that arrive din the meantime. They were registering in order to get the food packages. The rule was: one food package per family, and the choosing criteria was: families with more than 5 children or who have lost people during the occupation. Again chaos installed, and outside the office, banging in the metal door all the time and shouting there were a huge crowd slashing themselves against the walls of the stairway trying to get in and register for the packages. This made me realize that the situation here is much worse than in Salfit, and it made me see the problems that the siege caused to these people. In the old part if the town, the unemployment rate reaches the 60-70% almost and it is here where most of the critical cases live.
We headed towards the distribution point that wasn’t far from there and we had a hard time opening our way through the people in the stairway! This distribution point was a dark room with a small door very similar to the one described before, located in a street in the back of a building. The truck arrived at the same time we did. The t-shirts just flew around and it was time to unload the food and make some pictures. After the unloading there was one person left with the LIFE t-shirt, which was a teenager that was helping there. The taxis came in succession along with more cartwheels and again the distribution process was the same as in all the other places. LIFE collaborators were taking the food packages into the taxis and the cartwheels. This together with people coming and going, taxi drivers horning to the people on the streets and no LIFE logos around (except my t-shirt, the teenager one and the placards placed on the wall) to take pictures was a mission. People here seemed less "scared" of me, although they still looked at me with suspicious eyes and some of the staff ask me what am I doing there (I guess they were not aware of my arrival). A lot of people were asked to share their stories with me while waiting for their turn in the queue. Rafat was the person to whom I was "assigned" to and the one who translates things to me. The amount of people in need here is visibly more, fact that could be seen by the increased number of angry protests against the "small" amount of food that was given to them. It was hard to deal with that… the one that marked me the most was an old woman passing the pointing finger across Rafat's throat while protesting.
Heard some life stories from some of the people in need; among them a blind man, a man that had his arm burned due to Israeli bombing and a lot of people without work. Some of the people didn’t accept even to take photos.
We went then to have lunch at Rafat's uncle house which told me about him and his family and how the situation got worse in Nablus in the last six years. He told me that before he had money in the bank and that now he barely has money to live and that he lost his business a few years ago, along with 30000 US dolares. He lives now with 2000 shekels per month, from which 1000 are used to pay the house and fixed bills. He has 3 children, 2 of which are girls and have thalassemia. For this reason they have to do blood transfusions twice a month at least and to make a medulla transplant is way too expensive.
After this we left again to the distribution point and again the same stories as in the morning. The situation here is really worst than in Salfit area. There, because it’s a rural area, people seem to help each other more, but here, and like any other big city is more impersonal and people care less about their neighbors. One can feel the stress and tension of the people in the air. They are more impatient, more nervous, less caring and less warm.
And although the situation here is bad, the city itself is wonderful… And despite the aggressive posters and the constant appeal to revolution in the air, I like it very much!
It is a city full of life, full of people and pretty clean for what I have seen until now in the WB.
Rounds of shooting can be heard all across the city, but I guess it's because Ramadan starts tomorrow. In the city center a Christian tower can be seen side by side with a Mosque, and in
the top of the hill a Israeli control tower can be seen (they shoot to city sometimes from there).The night was falling and I went to Rafat's appartment. A nice apartment in the 4th floor of a new building in the top of one of the hills of Nablus and the view over the city is just fantastic. Had a nice meal together with some more tea and Arabic coffee. Then the rest of the evening I spent writing my daily report and playing with his son, Nouni: a very smart 2.5 year old kid. When I finished my writing and was finally preparing to go to bed, action started!
Some shooting blasted very near my house, one street under the street of my building. I could see from the window armed man running around a catholic church and shooting at some other people. I got to know later that night that it was some people that tried to burn the church due to the recent Pope comments… the shooting was between these men and the Palestinian police. It was my first live shooting and both me and Rafat got scared when a lost bullet could be seen coming more or less in our direction (it is like a shooting star, orange in color, and coming from down towards up)… I went to bed shortly after… what a day and what a night!
Nablus, 23rd September 2006
One more day in Nablus and as I mencioned before, despite all its problems, it is a fantastic city. It has all it needs to prosper, if it wasn’t for the siege…
Tonight I slept really well! Maybe my best night sleep since I arrived in Israel/Palestine. My hosts are great! Once again I was lucky!
Today is the first day of Ramadan, so I will try to keep up to the rule: don’t eat or drink or smoke until the sunset. Since I do not smoke I would "just" have to cope with the fasting.
I and Rafat left the apartment and went to the Workers Union. There was no distribution today and so I spent the next 1 hour waiting for Rafat to solve some problems there. I was getting bored in Nablus… but I barely knew what was expecting me that day! In the meantime, when Rafat was done in the workers Union we headed to the PARC office where for the next couple of hours I waited sitting for a meeting to finish. I have to admit that I cheated Ramadan and I ate and drunk by lunch time…I couldn’t stand it… and if I didn’t eat I couldn’t concentrate on my work later on that day.
In the meantime, people that got some food packages the day before were coming back to complain again that the food wasn’t enough and they were trying to "fool the system" by coming several members of the same family asking for food packages. Unfortunately for them the technique didn’t work, so they were going away pretty upset and some of them really angry.
A bit later we went to another building where Rafat was supposed to meet with somebody else. By this time I felt pretty useless and I was getting bored and bored. I then asked for the plan of the day and he told me that we would go to visit the old center of Nablus and try to talk to some families living there. The objective was to record some testimonials about the apartheid and the Israeli army frequent incursions and bombing to that area of the town.
At 14:00 I had to talk with Abujamil, the guy who was coordinating the distribution (I think) and he asked me about my impressions of Nablus. He wanted some feedback.
I told him about my point of view of the situation as an outsider: the situation here is much worse than the situation people live in the rural areas of Salfit. One could see clearly that the amount of people asking for more food is more compared to Salfit, the stress and tension people have can be felt in the air and also because in cities people care much less about each other, the situation becomes even worse. In rural areas the motto is more like "one for all and all for one", while in Nablus is "I'm for me and you are for you". Moreover, the huge unemployment rate (reaching 60-70% in the old center) together with the economic sanctions and the siege make it very hard to the people living here. People seem to respect less the person next to them and personal interests come always first. Fact that is completely understandable because one can't worry about the wellbeing of others if his own situation is not stable.
Abujamil agreed with me and he called a man and asked him to guide me through the old city center. He told me that we should leave right away because after 17:30 they could not protect me against some possible local militia threat. This made me feel my stomach again… but I had to do it. Was a unique opportunity and I had to grab it.
When the tour started, they showed me a house in ruins and told me that it was a bomb that the Israeli army putted there killing 6 people inside. A few meters ahead the same situation, where 4 more people died… the old center is beautiful, the streets are narrow full of passages under the houses that resemble a big old maze… I admire all that and think on how lucky I am to have the chance to see that still intact piece of history and think about the people who would pay a lot just to see what I was seeing… pieces of intact history are priceless and all this was threatened… We continued, and the number of bombed houses succeeded, along with the number of killed people on them… in the main plaza of the center there was a "shrine" to 9 victims of one of the bombed houses there… a hole family was killed! In this place there were a group of people looking at me and my guide advised me to keep the camera down and not to take more pictures for now… I followed his advice! I have noticed before that some people were making some comments to me and some were not very happy with the fact that I was taking pictures and getting my video camera out!
The tour continued, and the propaganda posters along with the killed people memorials and shrines increased. We got into a parking place where one could see that before there were houses… again he told me that 16 people were killed here in a bombing and that now it was converted in parking place for cars… we soon arrived at the old market where the people pushed against each other, some shopping, some running to the big Mosque in the center… it was vibrating with life, colors, shops, food, clothes, people…full of everything. It almost makes you forget about all the problems… And contrarily to what I experienced in the old town center, in the market people look at me, smile and say to each other: "Television, television!"
Because it was the first Ramadan day, people were extra busy at this time of the day and that was the reason why we didn’t visit any family as predicted before… What a pity! But anyway, it was good that I had the chance to go through this experience, which I think I would have never been able to do it by myself alone.
When the tour was over me and Rafat bought some food and headed home. There we had a full dinner with Schwarma included and I started packing my stuff to go to Haifa the next morning. My Nablus' time was getting to an end. I was missing it already…
After dinner we were having some Arabic coffee when Rafat received a sms and asked me if I wanted to go with him to the hospital to see some Israeli shooting victims. I went of course and when we arrived there we saw a man lying in bed with a big wound in his arm. The story was as following: he was in a taxi near the Nablus checkpoint when the car in front of them almost stopped. The taxi driver started overtaking this car and from one of the control towers a Israeli soldier shouted "Stop!" at the same time he started shooting at the car… 4 people were wounded. This man was the most critical case and he had 3 bullet fragment wounds in the back and one of the bullets entered near his wrist and got out near the elbow… It was very sad to hear the poor man story that had done nothing wrong. I didn’t know what to think with the hospital room smelling like blood and seeing the man lying in his bed in despair…
We went away and on our way home Rafat showed me one of the busiest streets at night of Nablus…had a coffee in a local café and headed home to sleep.
The next day would be a long day!
from Nablus to Nazareth 24th September 2006
That day started very early to me, earlier than what it should have! As it was supposed to leave Nablus at 8:00, I set up the alarm clock for 7:00. I realized one hour after that my clock was forward one hour… that’s why nobody was awake while I started to stress out with time.
Anyway, at real 7:00 Rafat woke up, we got ready and left to the center where I was supposed to meet Munjid at 8:00. he would take me to Ramallah and then somebody would accompany me until Jerusalem where I then would get a bus to Haifa, place where Iyad would be waiting for me.
Munjid was late 30 minutes and only at 9:00 we got out of Nablus. The taxi took us until the checkpoint. And now I had to do the reverse way I did 2 days ago. It was very easy to get in to Nablus, but it seemed impossible to get out! In our way to the checkpoint a crowd of people could be seen. I realized then that the checkpoints were closed and there was one soldier calling and checking person by person before being allowed to proceed further or be sent back. Between a fence on the left and concrete clocks on the right people were pushing each other forward while the soldiers were shouting to us to step back. For every step we were giving forward the soldiers would send us three steps back. We were at gunpoint all the time: from the soldiers in front of, from the left, from the right…never been like that before… never felt like that before! Felt so trapped, worst than being in a cage… its really hard to put it on words... couldn’t even think properly! And to get things worse, a family of 5 people just opened way throughout the crowd and the father faced the Israeli soldiers shouting something to them, they started shouting back at him and sending him to the queue. But he was not acceding to the soldier's orders, so they started pushing him with the riffles! Never experiences something similar and my heart started beating faster… I was just hoping that this wouldn’t start a random shooting, I was hoping that the man could just quit and go back to the line, which for the good of all he did soon after!
Squeezed against the people, under the sun, carrying all my stuff in my back, under gunpoint, tired and anxious I heard the soldiers shouting something loud! It was easy to understand by the people's reaction, the checkpoints were opening and all the people were running towards there. There the situation got slightly better, more organized and there was shadow! As soon as my turn was approaching I was feeling a mix of relief and anxiety. The only thing coming to my mind was the questionnaire in the airport, and that was making me nervous. And to be nervous in these situations doesn’t help, so I tried to be cool, remain calm! When my turn arrived, I thought on how I cope with my scientific presentations back in my work and I thought that I should do the same: look like a stone outside although inside all is trembling in the beginning. So there I was, walking like gentleman and trying to keep my pose. I told the soldiers that I speak English to what they smiled and shouted: "Good, finally!". I got quite surprised with the reaction; they caught me off guard… then they asked me where I come from and when I answered "Portugal" the conversation subject changed to football... Luis Figo this, Cristiano Ronaldo that… then I showed my bag and they got impressed with the LED flashlight I had. They offered me money for it, but I ended up giving it away to one of them (didn’t need it for me and don’t think I would use it anyway here)… they asked me what have I been doing in Nablus and they let me go after without even checking under my clothes, maybe it's one of the privileges of being a foreigner, or maybe with the conversation they just forgot! I was free to go and that was all that matters. It was a relief!!! So I waited for Munjid and we got in a new taxi and headed to Ramallah passing the same Passport control I passed when I came to Nablus. Until Ramallah there was no trouble and the city seems to be much calmer than Nablus and the situation is obviously better. We went directly to the bus station and Munjid told me to get a bus to Jerusalem and then from there to Telaviv and from there to Nazareth…well that was not the planned and I stressed out again… there was nobody waiting for me and now I had to go all the way to Nazareth with 2 stops and changing included. After 4 days in West Bank the thing that I wanted the least was to think and worry with these things, but life goes on and I should go on too. I said goodbye to Munjid got in the bus and we started the trip to Jerusalem. Soon after leavin Ramallah, we stopped at another checkpoint, had to get out of the bus, walked through the control corridor and catch the bus on the other side of the wall. This checkpoint was much more fortified and organizes than the one in Nablus, so everything went smoothly. I was starting to get used to the checkpoint stress, because by now I was not getting nervous at all. It was just one more routine task I had to do. That’s how they should be seen… a routine task to do, or else they get into your nerves and you go crazy!
After getting in the bus I went all the way to Jerusalem, the Holy City and there got a glance of the golden roof of the big Mosque in the center, but had no time to visit so got a cab service to Telaviv. There I got out, and went to the bus station where I had to be checked up again in order to be able to go in and realized that is was empty, dark and closed! Frustrated I went out and looked for a cab. Again a taxi driver tried to rip me and asked 350 shekels to go to Haifa. I made him a gesture as if he was crazy and left, so he shouted "300 shekels!", I didn’t even look back. Finally I got another service to Nazareth and I paid only 35 shekels!
One hour and something after I was safe in Nazareth, safe but not sound! This trip messed a lot with me… need time to settle now!
posted by Luis Saraiva at 3:45 PM
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